The Coolest New And Underground Watch Brands For Men 

they’ve told for decades. Technology, meanwhile, inches forward in tiny increments – a thinner case here, a long-distance power reserve there.

And so newness turns up in different ways – the odd punk dial or a fresh take on heritage watchmaking, often from independent upstarts that challenge the design norms of the wider industry.

These are the coolest new and underground watch brands we have our eye on.

1. Baltic

• Origin: France
• Style: Vintage-inspired with modern durability
• Notable Models: Aquascaphe dive watches, known for their nostalgic yet robust look
• Vibe: Baltic focuses on retro aesthetics, particularly 1940s and 1970s vibes, while offering affordable luxury.

2. Kurono Tokyo

• Origin: Japan
• Style: Japanese artistry combined with Swiss movements
• Notable Models: Chronograph I, crafted by watchmaker Hajime Asaoka
• Vibe: Boutique and art-focused, appealing to fans of Japanese aesthetics with limited edition runs.

3. Ming

• Origin: Malaysia
• Style: Contemporary, minimalistic, and experimental
• Notable Models: Ming 17.01 and 27.01, which feature distinct hands and dial designs
• Vibe: Ming brings forward unique aesthetics and unconventional designs, often praised for quality and creativity.

4. Farer

• Origin: UK
• Style: British heritage meets Swiss craftsmanship
• Notable Models: Farer Universal, GMT Bezel models
• Vibe: With their colorful details and precision engineering, Farer appeals to those who love travel and adventure.

5. Autodromo

• Origin: USA
• Style: Automotive-inspired, featuring racing-inspired aesthetics
• Notable Models: Group B Series, inspired by 1980s rally racing
• Vibe: Nostalgic for car enthusiasts, with a focus on motorsport heritage and modern design.

6. Helgray

• Origin: Canada
• Style: Military-inspired, rugged, yet affordable
• Notable Models: Helgray Silverstone, featuring sleek chronographs
• Vibe: Tactical aesthetics with a hint of adventure, ideal for those who love rugged watches.

7. Nodus

• Origin: USA
• Style: Functional with a blend of classic and modern design
• Notable Models: Sector series and Retrospect dive watches
• Vibe: Nodus designs are simple, but refined, emphasizing functional beauty and are especially known for durability.

8. Unimatic

• Origin: Italy
• Style: Minimalistic dive watches with military influences
• Notable Models: Modello Uno and Modello Due, robust and built for extreme conditions
• Vibe: Sleek, highly-functional, and minimalist, ideal for those with an eye for simplicity and purpose-driven design.

These brands are gaining recognition for their unique design aesthetics, quality, and the exclusivity they offer compared to mainstream brands. If you're looking for something distinct, many of these offer limited editions or models that cater to niche interests, from vintage military to modern minimalism.